Відео

You are welcome! I’m happy to hear your success story, great job!

Excellent, I love to hear that! Nice work and thanks for commenting 👍👍👍

Yes sir, it’s not a fun one. Glad you were able to get it done 👍

Hello there! Wow, 18 months is on the low side. This could be due to cheap parts (likely) or if your friend is hard on the brakes. Either way, I almost always go with OEM. My experience with aftermarket brakes has always been a let down, no matter if I bought the most expensive or the cheapest. I’d give the OEM parts a try if you’re looking for longevity. Best of luck!

Also, if I’m reading your comment correctly, the OEM parts are $400? If so, shop around. OEM will generally be more pricey, but there are websites that carry OEM stuff and can usually be found cheaper than if buying from the dealership.

Excellent! I love to hear stores like this! Thanks for sharing and have a good one!

You're very welcome!

Hello! I’m glad this video helped! Thank you for taking the time to comment, I appreciate it 👍👍. As far as the rear door lock, I have not personally had any experience with them, but I’d start with removing the door panel and inspecting the connections. More than likely, a rod is bent or not secured well to a clip. Just have to open things up and look around. Sorry if this doesn’t help much. Best of luck!

Heck yeah, glad this helped! Hole saw to the rescue 😂😂😂. They should include these bits in the spare tire kit from the factory 😂. Thanks for commenting!

lol, no joke there! They should include mechanic classes when purchasing the car. It’s so terrible sometimes with these!

Hello. If you want to add the badges back, you’ll need to use the same adhesive the factory or the dealership used. A quick google search should give you good results! I usually use anything from 3M. They make great stuff!

Hello. I tried it wet too, but no luck. I’m chalking it up to lack of experience on this. I know a lot of people use the manual method with success, I just didn’t have the talent. Problem solved with power tools, haha 👍

@FastFixUA-cam so I spoke to soon. I'm actually enrolled in a tech school taking engine repair and basic electrical right now and was able to experience first hand the complications and pros and cons of valve lapping the day after I posted that comment and I will say valve lapping is a pain in the ass...wet or not wet that suction cup will only stick if it wants to regardless if ur doing it by hand or with the drill 😀

Hahaha, well I’m glad I wasn’t the only one having issues 😂😂😂. Several people say to chuck the valve stem in a drill and do it that way. The issue I see with this is scratching the valve stem in the drill chuck. Some people use brass chucks to resolve this issue, but I have no idea where to acquire those. Anyway, best of luck at tech school! That’s awesome man!

Hello. Ugh, I’m sorry you’re having issues! Sometimes these can be a bear to replace if not serviced recently. They can get stuck, clogged, etc…. Sometimes it’s better to replace the entire unit as I did about a year after making this video. Sorry you’re having bad luck! I hope things turn around for you! Remember, you can always bail yourself out by replacing the entire unit. More money of course, but it would be an upgrade and last a long time 👍

Yes, that’s an excellent method and what I will do next time. Thanks for the info! 👍👍😊

Hello, yes that’s correct! I’d only use in emergency situations because you’re right, it can damage the TPMS sensor although sometimes the sensor prohibits the skin from entering the tire anyway. Natures hymen! 😂. Thanks for the comment 👍👍👍

Yes, do it! Well worth the effort! Best of luck and have a great 4th!

Thank you, I appreciate it! 👍👍😊

Well, I wouldn’t say “nothing” but you’re right the problem isn’t fixed, just a work around. You might be surprised how many people just deal with it and never fix the issue. But yes, to properly fix, you must adjust lash or replace the cam if necessary 👍

He very clearly states that this is not a "fix." But it DOES accomplish exactly what he said it does, and that is to get it running and continue using until you have the time to tear it down and fix the root cause.

Right on! Yes, I think you’ll reach 270+ for sure! Every 50k is a good interval, but you could push it to 70-75k if you wanted. I like to do things on the early side, but every once in a while things don’t get done and I’m changing it at 270k, lol. Thanks for commenting!

do you feel any difference in the performance after changing the fluid ? i have 2018 camry with 120k clicks, a friend of mine suggested me to get it changed..and i am not sure if i really need to

@@deep1983 No, but to be fair I did also look up my vehicle history on CarFax after doing the drain and fill. It was a single owner before me (which I knew), it was bought and serviced at the same Honda dealership it was bought at until I purchased it around 5 years ago. The service records show lots of maintenance done, including a drain and refill of the trans fluid ever about 35k miles since new. So, I'm really happy now and going to keep doing mine every 50k. I would say with 120k, you should do a drain and fill. I'd do just one (which was my plan as well until I saw the service history). Mine was well maintained and it shifted perfect before hand, same after.

@@deep1983 And just to second what I said, your vehicle is still newer, just 6 years old. Does have more miles than average. Now would be a good time to start doing trans drains and flushes every interval you choose (maybe every 3 years, or ever 40k, whatever). But stay on it now, and you'll make it last.

Hello. Yes, I did feel like the fluid change did help the transmission. Gear changes were faster and more crisp. The car is still running strong since the change with no transmission issues. IMO, you’re perfectly safe doing a simple drain and fill. 👍

Great job! I’m glad this video helped! Thank you for commenting. I really appreciate it 👍👍👍

Excellent! I’m glad this video saved you a good chunk of change! Always a good thing when you can do things yourself and not have to call in the expert. Great job and thanks for commenting!

Love to hear it! Thank you for commenting and good work on fixing your problem. Have a great day!

Haha, my experience exactly! It’s really hard to spend $800-$1200 on a car that’s worth just about that amount of money or less, lol. I’m glad you were able to save some money and get this done on your own, great job!

Hello. Yes, the metal is sharp and if you don’t have a skinny set of hands like I do, it can be an absolute PIA. I’m glad you were able to work around it and make it work though! I hope it’s a lasting repair for you. Thanks for commenting!

Hello! Good question/observation on the piston condition. Honestly, I was pretty surprised at the amount of carbon that were on the Pistons. I hadn’t ran that engine for more than 5000 miles before I swapped to the GT40s. I’m not quite sure why they had that amount of carbon buildup, but it might be because I removed the smog equipment, or there’s more recirculated oil that goes into the heads than I wasn’t aware of. It’s really hard to say, but I feel like it’s an issue or perhaps normal operation of exhaust gases that get recirculated into the engine which obviously have a little bit of oil in them. I’m going to crack that engine open again in the next few months and will see what condition they’re in. I wish I could give you more specifics, but I am kind of loss just as you are. I don’t think you were risking anything by reassembling everything and running it as you had before, but it might be a good idea to run premium fuel and maybe add some injector/valve cleaner through the gas every once in a while.

Hello! Copper spray, huh? I’ve not heard of that, but it sounds like a good idea. I’m opening up that motor in the next few months and will do that when reinstalling. Good tip, thanks!

Aww, thanks! Right back at ya!

Great point! Thanks for taking the time to comment! 👍👍👍

Oh man! Sorry this didn’t work for your Si…. I know others have asked, but I never knew if it’d work or not. Know we know! Thanks for commenting and relaying the info 👍👍👍

Always an option!

You’re quite welcome! Gypsum ehh? Oddly enough, my father did the same thing and was the reason I had to clean his! Best of luck to ya!

You're welcome!

Glad this helped! 👍👍👍

Awesome, glad to hear! And you’re welcome!

You're welcome!

It's a hole saw. Green means it's Menards house brand, MasterCraft I believe.

Hello. It’s a hole saw bit. Any hardware store should have them 👍

You bet! Hope you find success!

Excellent advise! A good reason to use Toyota boots! Hope all goes well for ya!

Another great tip! Yes, do what works for you and that sounds like a good idea for all 👍👍👍

Hello. Yes, that is the concern although I’ve mostly heard that flushing The fluid out is the primary reason for the clutch discs to start to slip. As you say the grime acts as abrasive material for those worn out clutches. In my experience draining and filling, usually gets a good result or a neutral result, so I think it’s really up to the individual on what they want to do considering the condition of their transmission. Good advice!